10 Steps to Install Your Concrete Kitchen

You’ll install a professional concrete countertop by planning your layout, gathering materials, and building a sturdy melamine form. Next, you’ll seal seams, install rebar and mesh reinforcement, then pour concrete in stages while vibrating to remove air pockets. After that, you’ll trowel and finish the surface, cure it properly under plastic for a week, then demold and seal it with food-safe product. Finally, you’ll install it with adhesive and plan annual re-sealing. Each step builds on the last, and we’ve got the detailed breakdown covered.

Plan Your Layout and Overhang Requirements

How do you start building a concrete countertop that fits perfectly? You’ll begin by measuring your cabinets carefully, then add 3/4 inch of overhang on all sides to determine your mold’s dimensions and required clearance.

Next, plan for a 2–3 inch finished countertop overhang beyond your cabinet fronts. This creates an attractive, functional edge that extends past the cabinetry. You’ll use padding spacers to align with liner thickness if needed.

Your mold starts with a 4×8 foot melamine-form base (3/4 inch thick) as the standard size. Secure four 1.5–2 inch tall side strips squarely to this base. The mold extends from the ledge with a 1.5–3 inch starting depth to accommodate cement board substrate and achieve a finished edge.

Gather Materials and Tools

What materials and tools do you actually need to build your concrete countertop? Start with a 4×8 foot melamine-coated particle board sheet (3/4 inch thick) and extra melamine sides for your base form, supported by level sawhorses. You’ll need 3/8 inch rebar, remesh, and wire for structural reinforcement along edges and grids.

Gather essential tools: screws, a drill, saws, a level, rubbing alcohol for cleaning contact surfaces, a straight screed board, and a trowel or float for finishing. Stock concrete countertop mix with pigment if desired, plus an optional Liqui-Crete additive for workability adjustments. Seal seams with silicone caulk and protect surfaces with blue painter’s tape.

Before pouring your 74×37 inch top, construct two 1×2 foot test forms to validate pouring techniques, color accuracy, and finishing results.

Build Your Form Structure

Once you’ve gathered your materials, it’s time to construct the form that’ll hold your concrete in place. You’ll build from melamine-coated particleboard, cutting side strips to 1.5″–2″ height for your finished countertop. Attach strips with pilot holes and long screws, then seal interior seams with silicone caulk to prevent leaks.

Component	Material	Purpose
Base	4×8 melamine particleboard	Foundation
Side strips	3/4″ thick cuts	Containment walls
Corner braces	Reinforcement wood	Prevent bowing
Adhesive	Silicone caulk	Seal seams
Hardware	Pilot holes/screws	Secure assembly

Extend walls to accommodate abutment and add corner braces. Use guidelines and clamps to maintain straight sides, ensuring square corners throughout your structure.

Seal All Interior Seams

You’ll apply 100% silicone caulk to all interior seams, creating a thick bead around the top surface to block mortar intrusion before pouring concrete.

Smooth the caulk with your finger and remove the blue painter’s tape promptly for clean edges, then let it cure for about a day before handling.

Once cured, you can clean away any residue with rubbing alcohol to prepare the cabinet for the next installation phase.

Caulk Application Technique

How do you prevent leaks before they happen? You’ll apply caulk strategically to seal every interior seam in your melamine form.

Start by taping adjacent areas with blue painter’s tape to protect them and create clean boundaries. Then follow these steps:

1. Apply a thin, continuous bead of silicone caulk along all interior seams, choosing a color that contrasts with the melamine so gaps are immediately visible.
2. Smooth the caulk with your finger to ensure proper adhesion, then remove the tape promptly for crisp edge transitions.
3. Let the caulk cure for a full day before handling the form, then clean any residue with rubbing alcohol.

You’re now ready to pour concrete into a leak-free form.

Cleanup and Curing Process

After the caulk has cured for a full day, it’s time to clean up the form and prepare your concrete slab for the next phase. Start by wiping down the caulked seams with rubbing alcohol to achieve a clean, watertight finish.

Next, remove the form sides after two days by carefully unscrewing them and gently prying from the corners. Take care to avoid marring the concrete surface during removal.

Once the forms are off, cover your freshly poured slab with plastic sheeting to prevent excessive drying. Maintain this protection for a minimum of one week to ensure proper curing. This controlled curing process strengthens your concrete and prepares it for finishing work.

Install Reinforcement and Mesh

Why does reinforcement matter? It prevents cracking and sagging in your concrete countertop, ensuring durability and longevity.

Start by installing 3/8 inch rebar around the edges, spacing it on styrofoam blocks to prevent sagging. Here’s what you’ll do:

1. Tie the rebar and remesh to screws using wire, creating a stable grid that won’t shift during pouring
2. Position remesh within the form and secure it above the mold’s bottom so it stays elevated throughout the pour
3. Check the entire grid for sagging and add extra ties wherever needed to maintain level reinforcement

Prepare your reinforcement ahead of time to minimize delays. This setup allows you to pour concrete in two stages with proper edge support throughout the process.

Pour and Level Your Concrete

You’ll mix your concrete to an oatmeal-like consistency and pour it in two stages, pressing it into corners with a trowel as you fill halfway first.

During pouring, you’ll vibrate the surface by tapping with a rubber mallet or using a palm sander to eliminate air bubbles that weaken the final result.

You’ll then screed the concrete with a long straight board in a sawing motion, lifting over wire ties to fill low spots and create a uniformly level surface.

Mixing Concrete Consistency

How’s your concrete formulation looking? You’ll want to use a countertop-specific blend designed for this exact project. The additives in your mix enhance workability, making it easier to manipulate and finish.

Getting the consistency right depends on careful water management. Here’s what you need to focus on:

1. Start with your countertop-specific concrete formulation and additives already mixed together
2. Adjust water amount gradually based on your pigment type until you reach the ideal consistency
3. Test the mixture by checking if it holds shape without being too stiff or too wet

The goal is achieving a workable texture that fills molds smoothly without segregating. Your concrete should feel like thick peanut butter—spreadable yet stable enough to maintain its form when you press it into corners with your trowel.

Removing Air Pockets

Once you’ve poured your properly mixed concrete into the molds, it’s time to eliminate the air pockets that’ll compromise your countertop’s strength and appearance. Vibrate the wet concrete using tapping, a palm sander without sandpaper, or a vibration machine to remove trapped air. Ensure even distribution without excessive pounding.

Next, use a long straight board to screed the surface, filling low spots and lifting over wire ties to level everything. Re-screed and fill any remaining voids with overflow material. Cut and clip support wires about an inch deep to prevent protrusion.

Float the surface with a concrete float, keeping the lead edge raised to avoid gouging. Perform multiple passes while moisture remains. If pockets persist, rework by tapping or vibrating again before final troweling. Allow proper curing with appropriate moisture to minimize new voids.

Screeding and Leveling Surface

After you’ve vibrated out the air pockets, it’s time to level your concrete surface with a long, straight board. Using a sawing motion, screed the poured concrete while pushing material into the form and lifting over wire ties as needed.

1. Fill any low spots or holes with overflow material and re-screed until you achieve a uniform surface
2. Support the concrete with 3/4 inch plywood or a level surface, keeping screw heads away from your screed path
3. Ensure the finished top remains consistent and free from intrusions

Once you’ve achieved a level surface, you’re ready to proceed with floating and further smoothing. Allow adequate curing time before de-molding and final finishing touches on your concrete kitchen installation.

Remove Air Pockets and Vibrate

While your concrete is still wet and workable, you’ll need to vibrate the surface to release trapped air bubbles that can weaken the final slab. Use a rubber mallet to tap the form sides, bringing bubbles to the surface where they’ll pop.

Vibrate wet concrete with a rubber mallet to release trapped air bubbles that weaken the final slab.

Alternatively, a palm sander without sandpaper or a dedicated vibration machine works effectively for even bubble release across all areas.

Apply steady, thorough vibration without excessive pounding, which risks causing cracks. Coordinate this step with your curing timeline, keeping the concrete wet and workable throughout the process.

If air pockets remain visible after your initial pass, make small surface adjustments and re-vibrate before final finishing. This ensures a strong, quality slab for your kitchen installation.

Trowel and Finish the Surface

After you’ve eliminated air pockets, you’ll use an aluminum trowel to smooth out the lines left by floating, working methodically across the surface.

You can round the edges with a specialized corner trowel once the concrete has firmed up after several hours.

These finishing techniques will give your concrete countertop the polished, professional appearance you’re aiming for.

Trowel Application Techniques

How do you transform a floated surface into a smooth, refined finish? You’ll use strategic troweling techniques that require patience and precision.

1. Initial passes: Trowel in long, controlled motions with your lead edge raised slightly—this prevents cutting into the surface and minimizes edge gouges that mar your final result.
2. Timing matters: Wait until the concrete reaches a slightly moist edge before troweling again. Over-drying causes cracks and pulling, compromising your surface integrity.
3. Multiple refinements: Perform additional trowel passes several hours apart to close minor voids and achieve your desired texture, whether glassy or honed.

Each pass refines the surface further. You’re not rushing this process—you’re building toward a professional-quality finish that’ll serve your kitchen beautifully for years.

Surface Smoothing Methods

Once you’ve screeded and floated your concrete, you’ll move into the finishing phase—where troweling transforms your surface from rough to refined. You’ll use an aluminum finishing trowel to smooth out the lines left by floating, keeping your strokes deliberate and controlled. As the concrete begins to set, you’ll apply moderate pressure to achieve a polished appearance.

Tool	Purpose
Aluminum Trowel	Smooths floating lines
Rounded Corner Trowel	Softens edges
Rubber Mallet	Removes air bubbles
Palm Sander	Vibrates form-wet concrete

After a few hours, you can optionally use a rounded corner trowel to soften the edges, creating a professional finish. This timing is crucial—work too early and you’ll disrupt the surface; too late and the concrete won’t respond to pressure.

Edge Finishing Options

With your surface smoothed and air pockets removed, you’re ready to refine the edges—the final detail that separates a DIY pour from a professional installation.

Once the concrete reaches initial set, grab your aluminum trowel and work the surface with firm, controlled strokes. This troweling stage eliminates minor imperfections and creates a uniform finish. As the mix firms up further, you’ll transition to edge refinement:

1. Use a rounded-corner trowel to soften edges, preventing sharp corners that chip easily
2. Work methodically around the perimeter, maintaining consistent pressure and angle
3. Feather the trowel movements for seamless transitions between the edge and surface

This precision work ensures your kitchen counters won’t just function well—they’ll look professionally installed.

Cure and Demold Your Countertop

After you’ve poured your concrete, the real patience begins—cover it with plastic sheeting to prevent rapid moisture loss, then let it cure for a minimum of one week before you attempt demolding.

During curing, use a palm sander or rubber mallet to vibrate the concrete and eliminate air pockets. Once initial set occurs, trim any protruding wires or ties carefully.

Task	Timing	Method
Cover surface	Immediately	Plastic sheeting
Vibrate concrete	During cure	Palm sander/mallet
Trim protrusions	After initial set	Cut or trim
Remove forms	7+ days	Unscrew and pry gently
Flip slab	Post-demold	Face-up position
Final inspection	Before sealing	Patch cracks/voids

Wait 7–10 days total before sealing to ensure dimensional stability and full curing.

Seal, Install, and Complete Your Kitchen

How do you transform your finished concrete slab into a kitchen-ready countertop? You’ll need to prepare, install, and maintain your surface properly.

Start by smoothing your countertop’s surface:

Start by smoothing your countertop’s surface with progressive sanding to eliminate imperfections and air bubbles.

1. Sand progressively with 220- to 320-grit sandpaper to eliminate imperfections and air bubbles
2. Apply food-safe sealer to protect against staining and moisture damage
3. Position the countertop on your cabinet tops, press it down firmly, and secure it with construction adhesive overnight

Once installation completes, your countertop’s longevity depends on consistent maintenance. You’ll reapply food-safe sealer annually to maintain protection and keep your surface looking pristine. This simple yearly commitment prevents stains and extends your concrete countertop’s lifespan significantly.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Are Concrete Countertops Installed?

You’ll build melamine formwork, seal seams with silicone, set rebar and remesh, pour concrete in layers, float the surface smooth, demold after several days, sand with 220 and 320 grit, apply food-safe sealer, and mount to your cabinets.

Are Concrete Kitchens Expensive?

You’ll find concrete countertops aren’t expensive when you’re doing the work yourself—they’ll cost you just $8–$15 per square foot. However, you’ll need to commit significant time to the project and budget annually for sealing maintenance.

What to Put Down Before Pouring a Concrete Slab?

You’ll want to lay plastic sheeting underneath to catch splatters, then build your melamine-coated particle board form on a flat, level surface. Make sure it’s perfectly square and plumb before you’re ready to pour.

Do I Need Rebar in a Concrete Countertop?

Yes, you’ll need rebar in your concrete countertop. It reinforces edges, reduces cracking from shrinkage, and keeps the surface stable. You’ll tie it to remesh with wire, spacing it on styrofoam blocks to maintain proper elevation throughout the concrete.